Ever since the Momofuku Noodle Bar set downtown New Yorkers hearts on fire with noodle desire, shops have been popping up all over the place. The latest to hit the scene is called Hung Ry, at 55 Bond Street, just down the block from Il Buco, The Smile and kitty corner from Peels. This restaurant is a true multicultural effort. The restauranteur is an Asian Swiss named Amadeus Bogner. The chef is an American named Michael Hodgkins and the craftsman (pictured here) who teases fine noodle strands out of lumps of organic dough with his bare hands is Chinese.
It’s been open for about a week and we can confirm that the food is delicious. Judging from the quality of the food and the comfortable shabby chic interior, it is apparent that there are some real artisans at work here. This is not a faux fusion joint. The prices for a bowl of noodles range from $11 to $19 for the lobster and scallop version. That’s not cheap but that’s not at all unreasonable for a bowl of fresh, organic hand-crafted noodles. What they’ve done is elevate the humble bowl of flour noodles to a very delicious meal by using high-quality, organic ingredients served in Limoges flatware. If you prefer the $3.95 Chinatown version served in greasy, plastic bowls, then this place is probably not for you but if you appreciate fine ingredients put together in a new kitchen and served in a comfortable, clean environment, then you ought to pay Hung Ry a visit.
Try the beef tongue and frog’s legs as appetizers. The tongue is incredibly tender and served in a subtle pickled garlic broth with black chickpeas and carrots. The lightly fried frog’s legs with celery root and walnut salad was surprisingly tasty. Also, you should definitely try the duck breast noodles served with a generous amount of perfectly-cooked duck in a broth with roasted peppers and a hint of sichuan peppercorn.
Hung Ry is still waiting on its beer and wine license. When it gets approved, this place is going to be overrun with noodle nuts. What a great addition to Bond Street.